Forgotten end to the Canada Alaska caravan trip

I guess I was sicker than I remembered at the end of the trip, because I forgot to post! I was getting together to put a new one up, and I realized I never finished the trip posts. Oops! Here you go, weeks late. And the photo quality isn’t very good. My camera finally gave up completely, so they are all from my iPhone. The zoomed in quality is particularly bad!

We left Prince George after breakfast on Tuesday, 7 September. We decided we wanted to head home the fastest way possible, so we took the TransCanada Highway to just north of Jasper. We had intended on staying at the Icefields, but with the fires we decided on the Hinton KOA instead, the same place we stayed on the outgoing trip. The campground sites are lovely, but make sure you drive very, very slowly coming in. The campground roads are awful! Huge potholes are too numerous to dodge, so just go slowly. We had some caravan friends staying at the same place, and we all sat around our propane fire pit and relaxed after the rigors of the trip.

The next day we drove down through Jasper and Banff National Parks. The town of Jasper was closed completely as were all the campgrounds, and it was obvious why. Here are a bunch of pictures of the fire and it’s residual smoke.

When we got to Banff we saw mountain goats at the same place we saw them on the outgoing trip. There actually are 5 in this picture, but the baby is tough to spot.

Banff is just outside Calgary, so the road quickly becomes a major one, but the smoke still lingered.

Being a populous area with lots of wildlife, we saw a number of these wildlife crossings.

Animal crossing were frequent.

We spent Kevin’s birthday at Cranbrook KOA. Nice enough place. Not a great place for a 70th birthday though! We were both feeling pretty miserable, so we just had eggs and bacon, using them up before the border. No nice dinner for his birthday!

On 9 September we crossed the border with hardly any wait. Quite different when it is a weekday morning than the middle of a Saturday! We spent the night at one of the prettiest campgrounds we have ever been in – Jim and Mary’s RV Park outside Missoula, MT. The place is a gardener’s paradise with flowers everywhere. We always try to stay here when we are in the area. Since we were both feeling so blah, we would have like to stay 2 nights, but they didn’t have any availability, so we headed to Big Timber KOA west of Bozeman, MT. Nice enough place, but I don’t remember any details. Remember I noted the fuzzy head?

On 10 September we came to the Buffalo, WY KOA, and we finally got to rest a bit. We reserved a fancy patio site next to the river in their newer area. We stayed two nights. Much of the time I just relaxed on the patio, soaking up the sun and mild temps. We both needed a rest. After two nights, we were beginning to feel human again! It helps that the Buffalo and Sheridan areas of the Bighorns are some of our favorite places, though we usually stay up in the mountains or at the lake between the two towns. We wanted relaxing pampering though, so we chose the KOA. I don’t usually spring for patio sites, but this one was well worth it for recharging.

Feeling almost human, we continued east to Belevedere, SD KOA, west of the Badlands. We would normally have spent a couple of days boondocking in the Badlands area or at the park campground, but we were on a mission to get home! And yes, you are seeing a theme of KOAs. We find them standardized enough and close to the highway that we particularly like them on traveling days. After Belevedere, we spent the last night on the road at the Sioux Falls, SD KOA.

We are now almost home, and we booked it out of there on Thursday, 15 September. However a minor disaster struck not far out of Sioux Falls. We used the Blue Beacon Truck Wash there, and discovered the rock guard at the back of the MH had come unattached and we were leaking fluid of some type. We called our local shop in Decorah, IA and they said bring it in though it would get looked at for a few days. I drove the MH there while Kevin drove behind in the Jeep making sure nothing disastrous happened. He did enough debug to discover it was a small oil leak from near the oil filter. We just stopped at every rest area and checked the oil on the way. It was a slow way to travel! When we got to Decorah, we unloaded only the bare necessities (cats, meds, night clothes) and headed home. The cats were thrilled to have all the space, and they spent a lot of times doing zoomies and looking out the windows. The next day we drove back to Decorah and picked up clothes and a few more necessities. The forecast was for sunny weather, so we just left the refrigerator running knowing the batteries and solar would keep it happy. It took a week to get the diagnosis and a part (oil filter loose and a turbo hose leaking, so needed a new one of those), but we finally got the rig to Cedar Falls a week later on Thursday, 23 September.

We parked the rig at a nice local campground, Big Woods County Park. It is only 7 miles from the house and has roomy FHU sites. It makes a handy place to stash the rig while we unpacked and clean up. I admit we weren’t very quick at the cleaning business. We got the important things like like haircuts, grocery runs, and laundry though. We finally got the MH winterized. Kevin also emptied out every storage bay and repacked! I bet we are hundreds of pounds lighter LOL! It is amazing how unneeded junk hides in the back of the bays.

I will summarize our views of caravans in general and the specifics of this caravan in the next post. This one is long enough!

Jasper area

After our boondock parking at the Columbia Icefields, we went to a very nice KOA outside of Hinton, AB and just north of Jasper National Park. We spent some time in the town of Jasper, and I like it much more than I did Banff. Fewer people, interesting atmosphere, and really good food!

We enjoyed the architecture of the town – very British with additions of more modern style. Here are a few.

Church with a castle-style tower
Lutheran church
Provincial government building with modern addition

We ate lunch at a fabulous downtown upscale restaurant called “The Raven.” I had macaroni and cheese with onions and ham, and it was the best I have ever had. Note to self: grilled onions add a wonderful sweetness to Mac and cheese! Kevin had breaded tenderloins that were gluten free. The breading was made from seeds, and it was very good also.

And then we went back to Jasper, almost to the Icefields, to see the things you just can’t see from a motorhome.

There are a few deep gorges.
And braided rivers below the glaciers and snowpack
This one captures so many things about Jasper National Park
And this was one of my favorite waterfalls. Note the guy in red, center left.
A bit closer view
See the braided river with the purple flowers along the shore
This is the flower – fireweed

We took the following pictures on the way back to Hinton. Still in JNP.

This ice shelf looks ready to fall!
And another ice shelf
All that melting ice and snow flow into rivers that widen into lakes
Surprise! This is called Pyramid Peak!

We left the Hinton KOA today for an almost 300 mile trip to Dawson Creek, mile 0 of the Alcan Highway. It was an easier drive than our wagon master said it would be, at least for us. We are used to smaller state highways and a bit rougher roads than those who stay primarily in resorts. We transitioned from the Rocky Mountains to foothills to the Alberta plains. The foothills are heavily forested, and logging is the major industry. As we moved to the plains, oil and gas became the largest industry, though we still saw quite a few logging trucks and huge piles of logs in various locations. We crossed into British Columbia just before we reached Dawson Creek, so I haven’t formed any impressions yet.

We did see our very first grizzly bear, or at least Kevin did. We had stopped at a roadside pullout to take a break, and this big boy was grazing in the ditch next to the roadside. As we pulled up, he started moving away, but Kevin got enough of a picture of him to see it was a grizzly. I always prefer a nice long distance between me and grizzlies!

Walking away from us

We are here in Dawson Creek two nights, then we have three travel days in a row.

More on the Icefields area

The last post was getting pretty long, so here is more of the Icefields tour.

We were brought to a staging point by regular tour buses. Then we were moved to the ice buses. Obviously they are very unique. Top speed is about 10 mph, but they have 400hp engines that generate 4,000 pounds of torque!

48” tires that cost $6,000 each!
A 32% grade was a challenge even for these behemoths
Very little was level. In this shot, the level is the Icefields Centre in the back. The glacier extended that far in historic times!
Athabaskan glacier from where we were dropped off
Closer view of Athabaskan
Two unrelated glaciers not fed by the Icefield
Closer view of one of the orphan glaciers

Being a bunch of old farts, people were walking pretty gingerly on the slick, slushy surface. Anyone interested (which was pretty much everyone!) got a drink of the fresh, cold glacier water.

And did I say something earlier about waterfalls?

The truly adventuresome could sign up for a walking tour on the ice with a specialized guide. The guide provides coats, hats, gloves, walking sticks, and crampons. For some reason, none of our group chose to do this! The guides are important because their are deep crevasses.

“Icewalkers”
Grooming the “road” with a grader

After a remarkably quiet night in the parking lot, we took off to head to our next spot the other side of Jasper. More on that later.

Rocky Mountain House and Columbia Icefields

We stayed at a lovely campground called Riverview a few miles outside Rocky Mountain House. Fabulous place! It is right on the Saskatchewan River, though only a few campsites have a good view; we weren’t one of them! Big grassy sites that were quite level for grass.

After the exhaustion resulting from the Calgary part of the trip, we took it easy for a while. We did visit Tim Horton’s (great sandwiches) and Canadian Tire, both staples of Canadian life. We got to have a special activity at the Rocky Mountain House National Historic Park which I would like to spend more time. Rocky Mountain House was the westernmost big trading post for the Hudson Bay Company. There are actually four historic forts on the grounds, or at least the foundations are there. We just stayed at one end though, doing our activity (making moccasins by hand with Pendleton Wool blankets!), then spending far too short a time at another exhibit. There were docents everywhere, and we enjoyed the presentations about the Métis in the area.

Models of the Red River carts used by the Métis and others in the country, resting on a bison hide.
A young docent talking about furs

They also had an enjoyable presentation about the music of their community. It was a combination of Scottish/Irish jigs with overtones of indigenous dancing – similar movement to jigs, but quieter with less pronounced foot movements. The Métis were persecuted in the later 1800s, and they were not permitted their language and dancing, but like most such groups, they just hid their actions and kept going.

The historic site was filled with lovely wildflowers.

We we’re headed to the Olympia Icefields the next day, but we were advised that most of the scenic pullouts aren’t big enough for motorhomes, so we drove the road in the car up and back. It was a great idea even though it was rainy part of the day. I think the sky and clouds gave a very gothic look to the mountains. We did see one bear by the side of the road, a two year old that was pretty skinny.

I think he misses his momma

The sun and rain alternated the entire day.

Glaciers were numerous, and the melt from the snowfields and glaciers fed waterfalls everywhere we looked.

“Weeping Wall” where water comes out of cracks in the rocks
Distance view of a waterfall showing the scale
Close up of the previous fall.Full drop that hits a ledge and goes airborne before falling again
Yet another one from a distance

And of course there were wildflowers!

We then moved our rolling caravan to the Columbia Icefields for a overnight in the RV parking lot! Obviously dry camping without any hookups, but the views were impressive. We also took a ride to the Athabaskan glacier fed by the icefield on a specialized bus with MASSIVE wheels! Here is what the tour looked like from a distance (pictures taken before our trip).

The tiny dots in the last picture are the people in the first picture.

I think the pictures from the Icefields tour deserve their own post.

Oh the joys of border COVID testing in Canada

I actually have decent campground WiFi for a bit, so I thought I would summarize our experiences with Canada’s random COVID testing process. I will update this post as we learn more, because it is an evolving saga!

Canada reserves the right to randomly choose border crossing folk for a PCR COVID test. If you are selected you are supposed to take the test within 24 hours of crossing the border. It makes great sense to me. We crossed the border Saturday, and nothing was said about it. Normal, right? Wrong!

On Tuesday, four entire days after we entered Canada, I got an email telling me someone in my party had been selected for the entry test. It didn’t even tell us whether it was Kevin or me. Sigh. And since the process is really much more oriented to air travelers of Canadians returning home, the instructions were pretty meaningless for RVers like us. It took two long phone calls to figure out what we were supposed to do. We needed to provide an address for a kit to be sent via Canada Post, planned for 5-7 days in the future. We are here in Calgary until Friday, then we spend 3 nights at Rocky Mountain House, so I gave them the RMH address. It confused the poor man on the phone so much because it is a very, very, very rural address! (Has anyone else ever seen an “house” number of of 400,009? I added the comma for readability. Yup, that is part of the street address of our campground.)

So I think I have everything settled, though it is still iffy whether we get the test in time. And, of course, the night after RMH is boondocking with no address. Then today (Wednesday) I get a call from Canadian Public Health, automated, informing us (finally) that Kevin was the lucky random testee. Also part of the call was “Did you take the test with it 24 hours?” No. “Why not?” Luckily, “No one told me,” was the second alternative given. The call ended with Kevin being told to call the lab which we did yesterday. Sigh. Oh the trials of international travel in COVID times. Oh, and we have at least 3, maybe 4, people in our tour group of around 40 that have COVID right now!

To be continued …

Alberta Heritage Center, Calgary

I normally wouldn’t post back to back like this, but we are spending the next 2 days at the Calgary Stampedes, and I think that post might be overloaded!

We got into our campground, Calgary West, just after 11:00, and it was a riot trying to get all these big rigs parked in a old, cramped, unlevel campground. It was definitely not designed for 40+’ long RVs with slides on both sides. However it is the only campground in the city limits. After (almost) everyone was parked, we collected for a car pool to the Alberta Heritage Center. I was only lukewarm, and I was, again, thrilled with the venue.

There is a semi-modern section when you arrive, and we started looking at cars from the early 1900s through the 1920s in their automobile exhibit. There were dozens of fancy roadsters.

But I was amazed at the number of fully restored and operational work vehicles.

Oil delivery truck
A basic delivery van
Another oil truck
They even let people get in some of the trucks

I found it interesting that they use period trucks to deliver workers and goods when guests are in the facility.

Note the period clothing too

After we left the automobile area, we visited the main area of the 1910s or so. Lots and lots of buildings plus lots of docents and guest workers in period costume. This is only a small number of the buildings in this section.

The Wainright Hotel was THE place to be
The bank had a second floor access to be used to shoot robbers!
An impressive town hall
The local Mountie talked to us a while
We got a coupon for a free ice cream cone as part of our admission.

We only spent time in one other era, the Settlement. This represented the period of fur trading by the Hudson Bay Company.

There was a clerk at the Hudson Bay offices
And there had to be a church of course
The sauna was an unexpected addition
Shows the tradition from early settlement to more modern times

The facility covers dozens of acres. There is an old-time amusement park, a farm, and so many other beautiful things. We both said we wanted to come back on another trip, but hopefully on a cooler day.

The next two days we will be at the Calgary Stampede. Long days so I don’t expect time to post. We are on another long day the third day sightseeing some of the classic Banff National Park locations on a bus tour. Not the way I would have gone if we did it on our own (we would probably have spent 3 days!), but it will be a sampler. At least I can sleep on the bus on the way back!

First two days in Canada

Data on my cell phone is restricted to 0.5GB a day, so I will have to be cautious with how many pictures I post. I took a lot more than I put here!

We left Great Falls headed to Sweetgrass/Coutts to cross the border early on Saturday morning. The drive was uneventful, and we arrived at 10:45. There was a long line of 10+ vehicles and only one border agent processing us. Finally another lane opened, and after a few brief questions by a very nice border agent (“Do you have guns, cannabis, mace?”) we were on our way in 30 minutes. There is a huge truck parking/rest area immediately after the border where we had lunch. Then we headed to our first stop, Cardston, AB. We took Hwy 502 for most of the drive, and souther Alberta is GORGEOUS! There are gently rolling hills covered with knee high prairie grass interspersed with yellow canola and purple alfalfa fields all against a back drop of snow covered craggy mountains.

Hwy 501 from north of Coutts

We got into our campground, Lee Creek, and went to pick up Canadian currency and groceries at the closest grocery store. You can’t take fruits of vegetables into Canada from the US, so we stocked up. Then we went to the Remington Carriage Museum which was amazing. They have the largest collection  of horse drawn carriages in the world with about 350 in the current collection. We got a nice carriage ride around the grounds as part of our tour, but, sadly, my pictures of the horses and carriage didn’t work out.

The man who started the collection was a local rancher who obviously had time on his hands. He started with a single horse drawn sleigh for a Christmas parade and fully restored it. After that he was hooked. He willed 50 carriages, all restored by him, to the province of Alberta who agreed to build a museum and bring in other carriages stored in other museums. Here is a sampling of the museum.

this was an inexpensive csrriage, $20. It came in a box as pictured on the left.

A quality doctor’s csrriage.

And then there were the really fancy ones!

Carriages were literally stacked to the ceiling. There are rows and rows of storage like this.

The legendary Conestoga wagons were also represented.

As were heavy wagons for hauling.

And I added this one for my daughter in law who works for John Deere. It is a McCormick broadcast seeder next to a school bus. I didn’t see any John Deere rigs.

We left on Sunday for Fort MacLeod and Rivers Edge campground. Along the way we stopped at the Royal Canadian Mounted Police museum which is located in the historic Fort MacLeod. It was an optional stop for our caravan, but it was well worth the 2 hours we spent there. Not only was the museum interesting, presenting both the history of the Mounties and giving this newbie a good overview of the settlement of western Canada.

This is the current fort recreation. A number of the buildings still are of primarily original construction, but they have had newer pieces added for repairs.

And here is a diorama of the old fort.

They also have something they call “The Musical Ride” which was 7 riders doing cavalry drills of all types while music played in the background. It wasn’t as crazy as it sounds. While posted at what was then the edge of civilization in a harsh climate, the Mounties used advanced cavalry drills for competition and recreation. Setting the work to music just made it more fun. The riders are local youngsters from the ages of 13 to 20.

We got set up at our campground and went as a group to Heads-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO World Heritage Center. Another great place that totally exceeded my expectations. We had a local Indian docent who discussed the native tribes and their way of life, watched a very well produced movie about how an entire tribe would cooperate to drive the buffalo over the jump, and how they would then cooperatively butcher the animals, using every piece from head to tail. Almost nothing went to waste. I can hardly imagine the amount of work it took to completely process 100-300 buffalo within the 2-3 days with stone and bone tools, but they did it. This particular jump was used for nearly 6000 years, and the last kill was only in the mid 1800s meaning the lore was still in oral tradition. Oh, and the views were as open as any I have ever seen!

The top bluff was where the jump was made.

And those views!

We move again on Monday to Calgary and the Calgary Stampede.