I had great intentions of posting the day after my last post, but the reception was just too bad. Here is the entire Big Bend completion, all in one fell swoop!
We stayed 3 nights at Stillwell store campground. We then moved to the NPS campground at Rio Grande Village. I had carefully checked the campground size, and the site was plenty long for us. However there were lots of overhanging trees and we couldn’t get in! The lovely camp host moved us to an overflow site that was very nice. We stayed there 3 nights too. During the week, we drove the dirt road to Dagger Flats, home to a large number of Giant Dagger Yuccas. They were impressive in winter, and they must have been amazing when they bloomed. The flower stalks can be 70 pounds!
We also drove to the Chisos Basin twice, both times to eat in the lodge restaurant. The lodge isn’t one of the classic NPS ones, but the food was quite good. Of course it is the only place to eat in the park, so I am glad it was good. The views are lovely, and the Basin is up high in the mountains for a totally different experience than down in the flats.
The third part of the park is the Rio Grande River area. The mountains on the Mexican side were tremendous. Our campground was a couple of miles from the river directly, and maybe 5 miles by road. There is an official Border Patrol crossing its you want to go across the river in a boat, but we passed. The Rio Grande also had some hot springs right on the bank. It had been a popular attraction, and there were a lot of relics left.
The other big advantage desert mountains have is the quality of the light at dusk.
We saw only one javalina this trip, but we saw lots and lots of roadrunners! They are obviously experienced camp robbers, but they found us uncooperative. One walked up fewer than 3 feet away from me! We also had a resident coyote in the campground that cruised the dumpster hoping someone was messy. He was always disappointed while we were there.
We left the National Park today, and we took a slow road west through Big Bend Ranch State Park. This place had incredible scenery! It also was very empty past the entry point. Most people use the road we were on for river access since it parallels the Rio Grand closely. There just isn’t much river running in mid January though! It was lucky for me we had such limited traffic because the roads were narrow, steep, and winding. With no one behind me (only 3 cats passed me in 25-30 miles) I could slow down and enjoy the ride and the view. The most challenging section was a 15% (yes, 15%) grade both up and down. The diesel motorhome took it slowly and steadily, 15 mph up and 12 mph down. I doubt I ever break that grade record.
We now are spending the night at Van Horn RV Park where we stayed last year. They have a cute little restaurant with good food, so no cooking for us tonight.